A culturally significant Māori cloak will go on display in Aotearoa New Zealand as part of a new partnership between Durham University and Auckland War Memorial Museum.
The cloak, known as a pauku, is one of only five known in the world to incorporate a unique weaving technique using a two-directional border, called a tāniko. Until now, all of these cloaks have been in collections outside Aotearoa New Zealand.
Auckland Museum plans to display the pauku in a special exhibition alongside creative responses as part of a five-year research and exhibition loan.
The cloak will engender new generations to learn about the unique weaving techniques used to ensure this art is not lost.
During the loan, researchers and kairaranga (weaving experts) will work together to find out more about the origins of the cloak to help identify its most appropriate permanent location.
Kare ano mātou kia ako atu. We have a lot more to learn about the pauku. This loan is an important opportunity to engage with the mātauranga (knowledge) embodied in the cloak and celebrate the artistry and innovation of this taonga.
The close twined weaving technique (whatu aho pātahi) would have created an impenetrable covering for the stomach (puku) of the wearer providing protection in battle. This is why it has been named a Pukupuku or Pauku.
The pauku also features a rare 17th century tāniko design. This design, known as wā pōkere, contains mātauranga (knowledge) on the evolution of the beginning of time. The blackness of the tāniko represents the void from which the world emerged from. This design and tāniko technique have not been seen on a kākahu (cloak) in Aotearoa New Zealand in 200 years.
Customary kākahu are important cultural treasures that often represent prestige and honour, providing a connection to the past and spiritual world (known as wairua).
A community engagement programme, guided by the Taumata Māreikura (a prestigious group of weaving experts), will enable access to the cloak for the local community in Aotearoa New Zealand as well as for researchers and the weaving community.
The programme is funded by the British Council and Creative New Zealand.
Since 2017, specialist in Māori textiles, Dr Rangi Te Kanawa, along with other expert Māori weavers have carried out research and careful conservation of the cloak. They have worked with Rachel Barclay, Senior Curator at our Oriental Museum and textile expert, Dr Mary Brooks from our Department of Archaeology.
For more than 20 years I have worked as a conservator specialising in Māori textiles and as an active weaver of modern Māori textiles. I have never seen such extraordinary and intricate examples of early Māori weaving. From the first time I saw the Pauku warrior’s cloak, I have been captured by its uniqueness. I am honoured to have direct contact with it and look forward to sharing the traditional knowledge with the people of Aotearoa.
The cloak was part of a varied group of materials initially loaned to our Oriental Museum during the 1960s by the Trevelyan family. This loan was converted to a gift in 1971.
We are so honoured to care for such a culturally significant artefact. We are also excited to work with partners at Auckland Museum and across the weaving community in New Zealand over the coming years.
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